Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
